With Love From New Orleans A Guide to The Big Easy

One of the most thrilling ways to dive into New Orleans' unique history is with a Dark History Tour. As you meander through the narrow, cobblestoned streets of the French Quarter, listen to your guide tell spine-tingling tales of ghosts, vampires, and voodoo rituals!

The eerie atmosphere of the French Quarter at dusk is palpable, with flickering gas lamps casting long shadows and the distant sound of jazz adding a haunting melody to the air. I was particularly chilled by the story of the LaLaurie Mansion, a site infamous for its gruesome past. (If you’ve seen Season 3 of American Horror Story: Coven, this is where it’s set.) The sense of stepping back in time and feeling the weight of history in every corner made it an unforgettable experience.

Prefer humour over horror?

If you’re not too keen on horror but still want to experience the area’s old, eclectic charm, I recommend opting for a ‘Haunts & Laughs’ tour. We chose this more light-hearted telling of tales, and it was the highlight of my trip! Our guide, Brittanie, had us all in stitches with her hilarious energy and still filled the tour with so many facts, while also being respectful of the tragedies.

No visit to New Orleans is complete without indulging in its iconic culinary delights! The family-owned Napoleon House, with its charmingly aged walls and classical music, offers a perfect retreat from the bustling city. Here, you must try a famous Pimm’s Cup – a refreshing cocktail that blends Pimm’s with lemonade, garnished with a cucumber slice.

The bow-tie-wearing waiter recommended I pair my Pimm's with their legendary Muffuletta Sandwich, and it really was a taste sensation! The Muffuletta is a quintessential New Orleans warm sandwich, with layers of ham, salami, mortadella, and a tangy olive salad, on a round Sicilian sesame bread bun. Napoleon House has been a French Quarter icon exuding the patina, charm, and authenticity of living history since 1914 and you must pay it a visit!

My other foodie favourite:

You’ll spot a "Po-Boy" on nearly every menu you read in New Orleans. This Louisiana staple includes toasted French bread, stuffed with some type of fried meat, lettuce, pickles, mayonnaise and a generous spread of hot sauce for a Creole kick! The name comes from the common story that this style of sandwich was made for "poor boys" during a streetcar strike in 1929. The name was eventually shortened to "Po-Boy" due to the accents of those who ordered them.

For a different perspective of New Orleans, take a ferry ride across the mighty Mississippi River to the historic neighbourhood of Algiers. The journey itself offers stunning views of the city skyline, and as you step off the ferry, you’re transported to a quieter, more laid-back side of New Orleans.

Strolling through Algiers Point, with its beautiful old homes and charming streets, feels like a step back in time. Established in 1719, Algiers is the second-oldest neighbourhood in the city and was once home to many jazz musicians. Wander the streets and admire the historic and unique architecture and enjoy a glimpse into the everyday lives of New Orleanians.

What to do:

Hop on the ferry and enjoy the short ride across the Mississippi. When you arrive, take a leisurely stroll along the levee for the best view of the New Orleans skyline and wander around the town to soak in pleasant smells and sounds, meet its friendly residents, and get away from the hustle! Then, follow the Jazz Walk of Fame before refuelling at Barracuda Taco Stand and Margarita Garden – serving up the freshest classic tacos and cocktails.

Riding the historic St. Charles Avenue Streetcar is a popular New Orleans experience. The wooden seats and brass fittings exude old-world charm, and as the streetcar rumbles along, you’ll pass some of the city’s most iconic sights, including grand mansions and ancient oak trees draped in Spanish moss.

On the journey, you’ll be captivated by the beautiful Garden District, with its stunning architecture and lush gardens. There’s something magical about seeing the city from this vintage mode of transport, feeling the rhythm of the tracks beneath you, and imagining the countless stories these streetcars could tell!

Good to know:

The St. Charles Avenue Streetcar is definitely the most convenient and affordable way of getting around New Orleans’ busiest neighbourhoods. I suggest downloading the ‘Le Pass’ app on your phone and purchasing a ‘Jazzy Pass,’ which is ideal for short visits and means you can hop on and off the local buses and streetcars. Just beware the streetcars can be very crowded, and you may struggle to get onboard during peak times.

Follow the noise and you’ll find Bourbon Street! New Orleans' nightlife centres, around this monumental street of neon lights, lively music, and exuberant crowds, in the heart of the French Quarter. It’s a place where you can let loose and immerse yourself in the city’s vibrant spirit.

The electric atmosphere and the sense of camaraderie make Bourbon Street a must-visit for anyone looking to experience the true essence of New Orleans. As I walked down Bourbon Street, the air was filled with the sounds of jazz, blues, and rock, each bar offering a unique soundtrack.

After another great spot for nightlife?

Looking for a more off-the-beaten-path place to enjoy the music? Bourbon Street may hog the spotlight, but the real party is on Frenchmen Street! Known for its live music scene, Frenchmen Street stretches from the New Orleans Jazz Museum, all the way through the 7th Ward neighbourhood. Order a drink “to go,” and pop in and out of a variety of venues like the locals do!

For an adventure that showcases the wild side of Louisiana, an airboat ride through the Bayou is an absolute must! Skimming across the water at exhilarating speeds, you’ll navigate through narrow, winding waterways, surrounded by dense vegetation and the eerie beauty of the swamp.

The highlight of my trip was spotting alligators lurking just beneath the surface, their eyes glinting in the sunlight. The guides are incredibly knowledgeable, sharing fascinating insights about the ecosystem and its inhabitants. The thrill of the ride combined with the stunning natural scenery makes this a once-in-a-lifetime experience if you're visiting New Orleans!

Did you know?

• Swamps are critical ecosystems; they act as giant sponges and barriers. They help moderate flooding, absorbing excess water and they protect cities from storm surges!
• Alligators are the largest reptile in the United States, with the largest population in the world in Louisiana.
• Some alligators have grown a fondness for marshmallows, as guides will often use them to attract them towards the airboats. Gators think the marshmallows are eggs due to their size and colour!

No visit to New Orleans is complete without a visit to Café Du Monde, located on Jackson Square. Opened in 1862, this legendary open-air café is famous for its chicory coffee and beignets – pillowy, deep-fried doughnuts (without a hole), generously dusted with powdered sugar. You can even watch them being freshly made through the kitchen window!

The café’s original location in the French Market, offers prime people-watching opportunities, and I found myself lost in the bustling rhythm of the city, with street performers providing a delightful soundtrack to my morning! If you don’t get chance to call by this stand, don't worry, there are 8 other stalls throughout the city…

The history of the beignet in New Orleans:

Beignets were first introduced to the city by the French-Creole colonists in the 18th century. The founder of Café Du Monde, Fred Koeniger, started the business in the French Market in 1862 and after 60 years, the business was sold to Hubert Fernandez. A favourite of locals and tourists, the beignet was named the official state doughnut of Louisiana in 1986 and is an icon of the city.

City Park is a verdant oasis that offers a tranquil escape from the urban hustle! Spanning over 1,300 acres, it’s one of the largest urban parks in the United States, complete with ancient oak trees, serene lagoons, and beautiful gardens.

The park is also home to the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA), where you could spend hours admiring the impressive collection of works! The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden is an outdoor expansion of NOMA, that houses 90 sculptures by world-renowned artists, with free admission. I definitely recommend checking it out.

And relax...

As the perfect place to seek shade and peace, I recommend bringing a picnic and lounging under the Spanish moss-covered trees. Or if you get peckish whilst you’re there, City Park is also home to another Café Du Monde, with both an inside counter and an outside service hatch for beignets on the go!

Jackson Square is the beating heart of the French Quarter, a lively plaza that radiates with the energy and creativity of New Orleans. Surrounded by historic buildings, including the stunning St. Louis Cathedral, the square is a hub of activity, with artists, musicians, and fortune-tellers vying for attention.

On my visit, I was mesmerised by the array of art on display and captivated by the street performers, who brought the square to life with their music and antics. Sitting on a bench, I really enjoyed watching a local jazz band play, as tourists got up to dance along to the beat.

Looking for a souvenir?

If you’re on the hunt for a gift or souvenir, and can’t find one in Jackson Square, the best place for shopping is Magazine Street! Featuring 6-miles of quirky, locally-owned retailers, high-end boutiques, vintage shops, cafés and more – you can enjoy hours of retail therapy here!

New Orleans’ 'cocktail culture' is legendary, and there’s no better place to experience it than at Pat O’Brien’s, home of the famous Hurricane. This potent mix of rum, passion fruit, and lime is as delicious as it is strong – and it’s a striking red colour!

In the bar, customers are treated to lively piano duels – a raucous, interactive performance where two pianists compete, taking audience requests and egging each other on. The atmosphere was electric, with everyone singing along and cheering. It was a night of pure fun, showcasing the city’s love for good drinks, good music, and good times.

About the Hurricane cocktail:

Pat O’Brien’s signature drink, the Hurricane, was created in the 1940s during World War II. At the time, manufacturing had replaced distilleries, leading to a whiskey shortage. Bar owners had to order 50 cases of rum, to get just one case of whiskey. This surplus of rum spurred the employees at Pat O’s to invent a new cocktail, resulting in the birth of the rum-based Hurricane!

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